The Snapshot

Recently I published about the Bottega group’s newest Spanish tapas joint, Atica, and now I move downstairs to La Diosa, also by the Bottega team, in the same heritage building. Meaning “the goddess” in Spanish, La Diosa is a Mexican restaurant and bar bringing la fiesta at any and all hours.

La Diosa is an homage to all things Mexico, in the most eccentric of ways. Think pictures of Frida Kahlo, sombreros, and mariachi bands abound – as trite as it comes, yet still overtly endearing; colorful without being obnoxious and homey without feeling contrived. Like the backstreets of Mexico City, La Diosa is boldly vibrant, with a food, drink, and music program to match, a welcome addition to Shanghai’s drinking and dining scene.

The Food

La Diosa’s grand opening took place July 6 with a menu chock-full of Mexican classics – tacos, quesadillas, gringas, antojitos, chili relleno, chips and salsa, and the like – plus margaritas, signature sippers, and a broad range of tequila. As the sun continues to swelter, so will the menu, with an expanded selection of Mexican staples, curated by chef Jarrod Verbiak (previous Executive Chef of Rosewood Beijing), who threw in the Michelin towel after years of working for Daniel Boulud in NYC and Vegas, to instead opt for cooking comfort fare.

Ceviche Aguachile (RMB88) – Cured yellowtail, adobo verde, radish, red onion, jicama

Falling into the comida corrida category, or a ‘meal on the run,’ the style of food at La Diosa is the perfect meal for busy workers who need a filling lunch served quickly. Usually found at fondas, or small taverns, comida corrida dishes are bucolic, like something your mom would cook, in a friendly, casual space.

So with that, let’s begin with the humble taco, identifiably half-moon in shape, fitting snugly in one hand and stuffed with a multitude of smoky, flame-licked meats, each dripping with fat and stewing juices. In the name of the salsa, the queso, and the holy chili, we praise you taco gods for this offering. 

And said taco offerings (served in sets of two) span the gamut, from Pollo (RMB59) – smoked jalapeño pulled chicken sprinkled with fresh cotija cheese, pickled onions, and cilantro; 

...to Pescado Estilo Baja (RMB73) – battered and fried cod filets astride cabbage slaw, all dribbled with avocado cream; 

...from Al Pastor Trompito (RMB69) – achiote roasted pork skewers smothered in diced pineapple and salsa verde; 

...to the lauded Birria y Consomé (RMB79) – braised beef shank massaged with Oaxacan spices and stewed for hours, glued to its flour tortilla shell with melty mozz. Trickling droplets of enticingly aromatic consomé pour down your chin with each sopping bite.

Quesadilla (RMB69) – Mozzarella and Colby Jack cheese, roasted corn, black beans, pico de gallo, lime sour cream

Aside from the tacos, but still built around the beloved masa tortilla, there’s the Enchiladas de Pollo (RMB88) – rolled tortilla tubes filled with pulled chicken and smothered in a duo of tangy red and green salsa, chopped onion, cilantro, and a liberal dollop of lime sour cream...

...and the Tostada de Atún (RMB38), heaving with fresh tuna and buttery avocado cubes.

Totopos y Salsa (RMB58) and chunky Guacamole (RMB68) are viable sharing options as the tacos are essentially a three-bite situation each – not exactly ideal for a puff-puff-pass. 

Equally substantial, the Chicharrón (RMB78) see crackly, deep-fried-to-order Tajín-dusted pork belly with the outer skin puffed up like a Krispy Treat, best finished with a gasp of lime.

Campechana de Camarón y Pulpo (RMB98) – Mexican prawn and octopus cocktail, bloody mary gazpacho, cucumber, avocado, cilantro

Dessert sports Mexican favorites, like the Pastel de Tres Leches (RMB58) with dense sponge cake soaked in a blend of condensed milk, evaporated milk, vanilla and velvety dulce de leche before being coated in whipped cream, citrus zest, and candied pistachios, a bite worth throwing your diet in the trash for.

Other worthwhile contenders include the indulgent Diosa de Chocolate (RMB68) – dark chocolate cake with dulce de leche mousse and chocolate sauce; Sundae de Galletas de Canela (RMB48) – cinnamon cookies drizzled in dulce de leche and finished with a scoop of vanilla ice cream; or the decadent, cacao-forward El Pecado (RMB68) – dark chocolate pudding, whipped cream, bittersweet chocolate chunks, and candied pistachios.

Onto the good stuff, the mezcal and tequila. For more casual drinks, the menu offers House Margaritas (RMB70-90), plus Beers (RMB30-68), Wine (RMB55-65), Soft Drinks (RMB25-49) and aguas frescas, like Horchata (RMB35), Hibiscus Water (RMB35), and Tamarindo (RMB35). Or tighten the straps and prepare for a mezcal ride with the signature sippers, like the Diosa de La Tierra (RMB88) with mezcal, raspberry, honey, ginger, and nip of heat owed to chili salt, or classics like the booze-forward and citrusy Jalisco crowd-pleaser Cantarito (RMB80), the chili-rimmed Paloma (RMB80), or any of the other crafted cocktails that highlight mezcal’s diversity.

The Space

The vaulted-ceiling, split-story space is flanked by a mix of circular hightops, square lowtops, and bar seating, all brightly lit in a rainbow of colors – pastel-hued seating and dishware, pop art wallpaper, painted tiles, flickering neon signs, and (of course) a disco ball – Instagram-worthy snaps in every corner. The second-floor indoor balcony is also home to a DJ booth, encouraging those Shanghai late night party vibes we all know and love.

That same sentiment extends to the outdoor terrace, rows of striped-umbrella shaded hot pink tables begging to be adorned with frothy glasses of frozen margaritas, overflowing plates of tacos, and the lively energy of unhinged enjoyment.

The smartest way to tackle La Diosa is like a tasting menu, where the dishes happen to be served on tortillas rather than plates. The venue is conducive for gathering a group of friends, ordering every taco, a heaping bowl of totopos, and some other bits and bobs, and working your way around the menu, immersing yourself in the world of slow-braised meats, smoky sauces, gooey cheese, flaky tortillas, crunchy pickled toppings, and aromatic herbs that span across all dishes.

Despite the exceeding trendiness of it all, La Diosa remains unpretentious. Pricing is reasonably accurate, the staff are well-trained and helpful, the menu is approachable and the whole setting is just plain fun.

La Diosa, 82 Xinle Lu, by Xiangyang Lu, 新乐路82号近襄阳路.