A Sanctuary for Sustainable French-meets-Japanese Dining at Crony
A collaboration between Chef Michihiro Haruta and sommelier Kazu Ozawa
June 10, 2025
In the world of fine dining, few names resonate as strongly as Kazutaka Ozawa. Born in 1974 in Kanagawa, Japan, his culinary journey is a blend of passion, expertise, and an unwavering commitment to elevating the wine experience. Kazutaka's career in the hospitality industry began in 1994 at APICIUS, where, at the age of 20, he honed his craft as a Commis de Rang. This early exposure to the intricacies of service and wine laid the foundation for a career that would see him traverse the globe.
His time at the Four Seasons Hotel Marunouchi in 2002 is where he learned to navigate the complexities of international clientele while mastering English and the art of wine pairing. In 2005, Kazutaka ventured into the world of wine importation at Kenzo Estate in Napa Valley before returning to Japan in 2007 and serving as the Director and Chief Sommelier at Quintessence, a restaurant that earned three Michelin stars under his stewardship. Through these experiences, he deepened his understanding of viticulture and winemaking, gaining insights that influence his approach at Crony, the acclaimed restaurant he co-owns in Tokyo
Kazutaka opened Crony in 2016 with a vision for the wine program that is as ambitious as it is thoughtful. With a focus on French wines, the restaurant boasts an impressive collection of over 2,000 varieties, with Champagne and Burgundy accounting for 70%, followed by rare vintages from Bordeaux, Alsace, Loire Valley, Jura, Rhone, Provence, and more. He also stocks a curated selection of Napa wines, a nod to his time spent there.
Yet, it is Kazutaka's devotion to showcasing Japanese wines that really sets Crony apart. By incorporating indigenous varietals, such as Koshu, into the wine list, he bridges the gap between French and Japanese wine cultures, offering diners insight into Japan's burgeoning wine industry. This dedication to local producers reflects his desire to elevate Japanese wines on the global stage, making them an integral part of Crony's identity.
Kazutaka meticulous approach to wine pairing transcends mere flavour compatibility. His process begins with a dialogue with Chef Haruta, delving into the concept and inspiration behind each dish. For Kazutaka, each wine selection is not just about taste; it's about telling a story that resonates with the comprehensive culinary narrative of the meal. Case in point, for pairing with sustainably-raised, cold-water isaki fish, Kazutaka chooses a Grand Cru Riesling from the cool climate, mountainous Alsace, the wine’s lushness mimicking the fish’s buttery flesh.
In a world where dining is as much about the experience as it is about the food, Kazutaka Ozawa stands out as a beacon of excellence. His dedication to his craft, commitment to storytelling through wine, and innovative pairings at Crony exemplify what it means to be a true master of the sommelier's art. In 2025, this dedication culminates in him winning the prestigious Asia's Best Sommelier Award, an accolade that recognises his exceptional skills and highlights the tailored approach he brings to both the table and the wine glass.
Crony, 1 Chome-20-3 Higashiazabu, Minato City, Tokyo 106-0044, Japan
This article was originally written for and published on the Asia's 50 Best Restaurants website here.
My name is Sophie Steiner, and welcome to my food-focused travel blog. This is a place to discover where and what to eat, drink, and do in Shanghai, Asia, and beyond. As an American based in Shanghai since 2015 as a food, beverage, travel, and lifestyle writer, I bring you the latest news on all things food and travel.
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