The Place

The newest Russian hangout, Borsh & Kompot, grew from a March 2021 meeting between Jenya Boyar – who was previously running a pop-up concept named after the Slavic fruity, non-alcoholic beverage Kompot – and Xenia Sidorenko, who followed her father’s universally-accepted advice – “the way to a man’s heart is through his stomach” – to perfect her borsh recipe.  

And thus, Borsh & Kampot was born, named for two key elements that form the backbone of Slavic cuisine, and commonly served as part of a Russian canteen lunch set.

Together, they embody Russian comfort eats, and what Borsh & Kampot is all about – gathering friends together in a communal space to enjoy nostalgic, home-style Russian food. 

But a restaurant wasn’t the original goal. The two started out hosting dinner parties together.

“Just like the birds, me and Jenya are different,” Xenia says, referring to Alkonost and Sirin, the mythical birds that make up the Borsh & Kampot logo.

Xenia’s background is in upcycling denim and DIY restoration projects through her company UseDem, while Jenya spent two years as a co-chef at Brut Eatery.

Eventually, the dynamic duo’s house parties became pop-up events at restaurants around Shanghai, serving over 200 attendees a time. 

The success of these events, plus a partnership with Priscilla Young (co-founder of Brut Eatery) afforded them the opportunity to bring the motherland to the mainland, turning their idea into reality in the Yuyuan Lu spot that once housed Swirlz. 

The Food 

The menu is all about honest, home-cooked Russian cuisine you’d be served by your babushka: dumplings, blinis, stews and cakes, plus an ever-growing array of house-infused vodkas, available by the glass or as a ‘vodka train.’ 
 

As deep as Tolstoy’s legacy runs through Russian literature circles, borsh flows through Russian veins (and tummies). So, naturally, the Borsh (RMB52) became the first thing we chose to put in our mouths at this Russian outpost.

Hearty, yet sophisticated, the bowl strikes a balance between savory, sweet and sour, especially with a tart dollop of sour cream. Cubes of slow-cooked beets add earthy depth, while cabbage and sweet onions are balanced by thinly shaved slices of salted beef. 

The borsh comes with a side of Bread and Salo (RMB16), a slab of the fattiest part of the pork belly, which can be consumed raw, smoked, peppered, brine-fermented or fried.

The borodinsky bread – on which the pig fat rests in ribbons – is a dark brown sourdough rye, conventionally sweetened with molasses and flavored with caraway and coriander seed. 

Traditional Potato Dumplings (RMB42), or vareniki, arrive sprinkled with sautéed onions and fresh dill sprigs – pillowy and comforting – with an extra shmear of sour cream.

The dumplings themselves are boiled, like Chinese shuijiao, stuffed with whipped mashed potatoes. 

Steamed cabbage leaves encircle rounds of ground beef and pork as the bucolic Golubtsi (RMB72), stewed in a rich broth of shredded carrot and cabbage. And, of course, there is a generous scoop of sour cream.

By now you may be thinking, how could anyone consume more sour cream, but you'd soon be proven wrong because…

The sour Cherry Dumplings (RMB64), a treacly alternative to the potato dumplings, go perfectly with – you guessed it – a tangy dip of sour cream. 

Cakes and pastries are another aspect of Jenya and Xenia’s popularity, one that has garnered them quite the following, particularly Jenya’s mom’s recipe for Sharlotka (RMB48); a soft cake layered with apple slices that crisps at the edges and caramelizes with a mix of brown sugar and cinnamon.

Topped with a heaping scoop of vanilla ice cream and more cinnamon, the dish brings together the best aspects of apple pie, cake and ice cream – three dessert champions that culminate in an all-around winner.

Generally served warm, Kompot (RMB34) is a hybrid juice/tea made from dried fruits that is enjoyed year-round as an end to a meal. The best part involves sampling the leftover fruits in the bottom of the glass – a mix of peaches, berries, apples and plums. 

Sea Buckthorn, Raspberry & Thyme Kompot Tea (RMB48)

If a Russian restaurant isn’t serving vodka, are they really a Russian restaurant?

Xenia and Jenya think not, and they have ensured the Kremlin’s approval with an expansive selection of House-Infused Vodka (RMB35/45ml shot, RMB175/250ml carafe) available in flavors like cranberry, mixed berries, spicy cherry, sea buckthorn and horseradish, among others.

They also provide a lofty offering of imported vodka and Georgian wine, plus Georgian sodas for the non-drinkers. 

Aside from expanding the menu with more sweets and drinks, brunch will soon launch with offerings like Syriniki – cottage cheese pancakes with cherry jam; Khachapuri – housemade Georgian bread with cheese and egg; Buckwheat Porridge; and a Slavic Breakfast Platter with Ukrainian sausage, potato, pickles, egg and bread.

Take that, English breakfast. 

The Vibe 

The rustic décor is reminiscent of a welcoming hostel, decorated with traditional colorful scarves, local instruments and Russian artwork, along with jars stacked high full of fruit and herb infusions.

Many of the chairs and tables are DIY upcycled and refurbished by Xenia herself, upholding her core value of sustainability within the restaurant.

Seating roughly 20 guests at a time, the daytime vibe is more of a café, or Russian canteen, where one will find quickly prepared lunch offerings.

At night, that all changes, and the vodka flows more freely, giving way to epic house party-like evenings. 

Russians necking vodka, who would have thought?  

The space embodies more than just a place to eat though; it’s a community hangout for the Russian contingency. A place where they can honor their traditions, share their national pride and savor the flavors of Mother Russia surrounded by those with the same upbringing. 

Not a Russian? No problem, you’re immediately welcomed into the fray by neighboring comrades through festive dancing, singing and communal eating.

Drinking songs are universal, after all. 

Price: RMB80-150
Who’s Going: All the Russians and Eastern Europeans, vodka aficionados, worldly dumpling lovers
Good For: Honest, home-cooked Slavic food cravings, vodka-fueled parties, increasing your sour cream consumptions

Borsh & Kompot, 1411 Yuyuan Lu, by Changning Lu, 愚园路1411号, 近长宁路.