The Place 

While the rest of the world quarantines, the wine bar game in Shanghai has gone from zero to 60. Cellar to Table popped on the scene as yet another French wine bar in the heritage villa on Donghu Lu that used to house elEFANTE. Owners Philippe Huser and Karen Ma have a leg up, in that they also own Napa Wine Bar & Kitchen (currently closed for renovation, with the rest of Bund 22), a fine dining California-style wine bar with one of the most extensive selections of vino in all of China. 

Cellar to Table is the everyday, cozy casual alternative to NAPA – like dining in your friend’s living room... if your friend happened to have a beyond impressive wine cellar and a critically-acclaimed chef on hand. From the warm lighting and homey fireplace, to the friendly yet curt service and unpretentious menu, to the magnum pours of house wine served on arrival (starting at just RMB40, we might add), everything feels intimate, relaxed and comfortable at this classically French spot. 

The Food
 

In a world of ‘modern’ and ‘inventive’ twists, Cellar to Table’s menu stands out, in that it’s not trying to reinvent the wheel. Straightforward and to the point, each dish has its purpose without the unnecessary sparkles and frills that can so often detract from a dish. From appetizers through to dessert, each plate is executed with precision by Chilean head chef Francisco Javier Araya and his wife Fernanda, the restaurant’s head of pastry.

Sinfully buttery Rougie Foie Gras (RMB135) arrives tableside, topped with scalloped grapes and served alongside a quenelle of green apple and caramel chutney and homemade sourdough. Although the portion may appear small, the spread is über flavorful, so even the thinnest schmear packs a punch. 

Sardines (RMB90) – Escabeche, herbs, extra virgin olive oil

One of the restaurant’s most photographed dishes is actually just a delicate Squash Blossom (RMB65), but said blossom garnered its fame from what’s inside more than out – a shrimp mousse made with egg whites and tarragon stuffed like a dumpling into the gourd blossom’s center, before being bathed in shrimp bisque, dill oil and jus. The type of blossom rotates seasonally, with pumpkin blossom being the winter flower of choice. We actually found the Squash Blossom a bit underwhelming and lacking salt, especially when compared with some of the stellar mains.

Spain makes its debut on this mostly French menu in the Piquillo (RMB55), a Spanish red pepper stuffed with fragrant crab meat and gooey Comté cheese perched atop a thick potato square in a bath of seafood bisque. 

Escargots (RMB85) – Potato purée, garlic, parsley

It doesn’t matter what your heritage is, something about luscious sea urchin and a yolk-oozing onsen egg on perfectly al dente Sicilian pasta is pure comfort, and the Casarecce (RMB145) is just that. Proving that simple always wins, this homely dish touts Aristotle’s most famous quote, ‘the whole is greater than the sum of its parts.’

There are many places around the city where you can find good duck confit, but La Voyage Duck Confit (RMB95) is truly something special. With pork crackling-level crispy skin, yet succulently tender meat that just slides of the bone, the pleasing textural contrast is only surpassed by the fowl’s almost sweet, red meat-like flavor. 

Croque Madam (RMB65) – Parma ham, Comté, confit egg yolk

Hailing from Catalonia, Escalivada (RMB45) is executed to perfection – bell pepper, aubergine and onion roasted over smoky charcoal, allowing the vegetables’ natural earthy flavors to shine through. 

Steak & Frites (RMB160) have gone together since the beginning of time, and this leaner cut of Wagyu flank paired with addictingly crispy duck fat fries is no exception. Drizzled with a liberal lashing of chimichurri, the smoky, charred flesh gives way to a perfectly pink center.

The Tarte Au Chocolat (RMB85) is unadulterated cocoa in its purest form. Dense layers of dark chocolate sit atop a thin chocolate crust, sprinkled with a hint of sea salt – a chocoholics fantasy. 

Sangria (RMB60) – Homemade granola, vanilla ice cream, red wine, fruit

Flor de Caña 12 years makes this version of Baba Au Rum (RMB85) boozy yet balanced. Moist vanilla cake flecked with orange zest is topped with crème vanilla, making each bite a wave of citrus and sweet cream with a warming caramel liquor finish.

The Vibe

While Cellar to Table’s main dining area is smaller than Blaz and Hundo, the two other venues housed in the heritage villa, it does have a larger outdoor patio space, ideal for summer, but currently donning a heated dome for dining alfresco without the chill. 

Heading upstairs, Cellar to Table also runs a private dining room that seats 12, for those who want to pop the bottles the rest of us only dream of, but want their privacy while doing so. Realistically, on most nights, the space acts as spillover for those who can’t fit in the dining room. 

The tome of a wine menu – featuring Old World rare finds and New World imports alike – is not what you would expect to flip through while Biggie Smalls’ ‘Big Poppa’ plays across the venue, but it somehow it’s in keeping with the easy-going ‘just hanging at your friend’s place’ vibe. Select a comfy spot next to the fireplace, curl up with your magnum of red, grab some dishes to share and prepare for the most lux ‘staying in night’ to date. 

Price: 250-550RMB per person (including wine)
Who’s Going: Anyone and everyone who works in the wine industry, wine lovers, French food addicts
Good For: Date nights, wine explorations, foodie catch-up sessions

Cellar to Table,  20 Donghu Lu, by Huaihai Lu, 东湖路20号, 近淮海路.