The Snapshot

Led by the eponymous chef Dario, Cucina di Dario sees an upscale take on Italian fare, with a Chinese twist. Situated in a split-level property on Wuding Lu, Cucina di Dario is spread across a 10-seater, open kitchen dining room plus an upstairs terrace. 

Born in Wenzhou, but raised in northern Italy, Dario’s cooking philosophy is an amalgamation of these two dining destinations, at once adapting and respecting tradition. Customary Italian favorites, like risotto, tortellini, and tiramisu, make a showing, but with subtle Chinese riffs. The prix fixe set menu will set you back RMB1,580 for eight courses or RMB1,980 for ten.

The Menu

At just 28 years old, Chef Dario has taken it upon himself to define Italian-meets-Chinese cuisine, bridging authentic flavors with local preferences. “It's about balance,” remarks Dario while gregariously clinking champagne flutes with each individual guest. “My style is all about taking traditional flavors and presenting them in a way that feels both fresh and familiar to my guests.”

Each menu begins with aged parmesan, freely flowing champagne, and still-steaming homemade bread, including a Trio of Ciabatta – traditional Veneto-style, crispy polenta flour, and flecked with preserved mustard green (梅干菜 mei gan cai) and cured pork belly – served alongside spreadable baccalà mantecato (salted cod) made from fresh rather than dried black codfish. 

Next, a pair of Finger Foods – an uni & shredded crab tart and an ebi shrimp, scampi, and blueberry crostini dribbled with truffle oil – are plated above a savoy uni sabayon. Siphoned atop even more sea urchin and supple cubes of tuna belly, the juxtaposing juicy acidity of fresh peach makes it next to impossible to not lick the plate clean. 

The optimal marriage of cream and brine, the Caviar course showcases delicate burrata, squid, and apple sheathed by glistening beads of 15-year aged caviar and grated Parmigiano Reggiano. The brightness of finger lime both mirrors (in appearance) and contrasts (in tartness) the caviar’s inherent salinity. 

A play on pinzimonio – or shaved vegetable salad – the Seasonal Salad is best enjoyed eaten by hand. Rolled up in a lettuce leaf wrap, diners can grab and dunk the salad in a citronette dressing, made tableside with white balsamic, Modena vinegar, apple cider vinegar, Hainan lemon, Yunnan honey, and mustard. 

Inspired by a 60-year-old Veneto beef and mushroom soup recipe, the Consommé offers diners maximum flavor extracted from a multitude of mushrooms and fungi, double-boiled Cantonese style. This labor of love results in a semi-clear broth that explodes with umami warmth – exactly what you want to curl up with on a cold winter night. The broth is poured over thin slices of beef, cooked a la minute, to a tender medium rare.

Bresaola Risotto – 8-month aged in-house made bresaola, al dente risotto, mushrooms, Parmigiano Reggiano

The meal nearly reaches its pinnacle with the Lobster & Polenta, featuring French lobster seared to a succulent snap flanked by a thick dollop of polenta drizzled with a 15-year aged Shaoxing yellow wine and lobster jus plus sweet summer peas.

But the true showstopper is the M9+ Chateaubriand, rosy pink and cooked to perfection as a whole loin. Mashed potatoes, Yunnan mushrooms, and a classic red wine sauce serve as viable supporting actors. 

A playful alternative to conventional tiramisu, Dario's Sea Salt Tiramisu reimagines said classic with dried fruit-studded panettone in place of traditional ladyfingers and densely whipped mascarpone, for a less sweet yet decadently rich finale.

The Atmosphere 

As guests enter, they are greeted by the sight of Dario expertly crafting each element of the meal, a testament to his dedication and passion for Italian cuisine. His ability to adapt classic dishes while respecting their roots creates an approachable yet refined dining experience. Cucina di Dario's ambiance is both intimate and inviting, with the open kitchen design allowing guests to witness the artistry behind each dish. The counter seating promotes interaction, enabling diners to engage with the bubbly, extroverted Dario and his team. 

And this is exactly what sets Cucina di Dario apart: the personal touch that Chef Dario brings to the experience. His charisma and enthusiasm for Italian cooking shine through, making each guest feel that much more engaged in the dining process. For those who speak Chinese or Italian, the full Dario experience is even more enriching, as his stories and insights add depth to any culinary journey.
Cucina di Dario, Room A101, 1101 Wuding Lu, by Yanping Lu, 武定路1101号A101室, 近延平路.