Author's Note: KIN Urban Thai Kitchen has closed since the original date of this article's publication

The Place

When it comes to Thai cuisine, Shanghai is full of general takes on the country’s food. These menus feature the likes of tom yum soup, coconut milk-laden curries, pad thai and green papaya salad – all tempered for local tastes.

While KIN Urban Thai Kitchen has a few of these items, it’s taken the bold step of specializing in the tastes of Northern Thailand.

Owners The Camel Hospitality Group (The Smokehouse x Camel, D.O.C. Gastronomia Italiana, The Bull & Claw, Blarney Stone, El Santo, etc.), aren’t the first people to travel to that region and return captivated by the unique flavors of Lanna food, but they did step into uncharted territory when they first opened back in 2019, bringing specific regional Siamese dishes to the Shanghai food scene. 

And now, they are expanding their radius by opening a second shop on Kangding Lu, bringing a lot of the same favorites, plus a smattering of newbies to the Jing’an crowd.

The Food

In Northern Thailand, chefs often bruise fruits, vegetables and fragrant spices into submission. 

The Som Tam Pounded Green Papaya Salad (RMB58) with tomatoes, long beans, salted egg, dried shrimp and lime really showcases that Northern Thai pungent fish sauce punch, but if it’s spice you’re after, opt for the pickled chilies, dry chili flakes or house sriracha on the table.

The salted egg adds a welcome wave of funk, mellowed by crisp lettuce. 

Hailing from Laos, but just as popular in Northern Thailand, the Laab Moo (RMB68) sees a northern herb-seasoned minced pork that is then wrapped into lettuce or cabbage, sprinkled with assorted fresh herbs (and a heaping scoop of that papaya salad if you’re into upping the texture and flavor game).

Also from the ‘Light & Fresh’ portion of the menu, the Miang of Pomelo with Thai Tiger Shrimp (RMB78) sees bird’s eye chilies unfold with piquant heat, rounded by crisp coconut flakes, juicy pomelo segments, cilantro, loads of citrus and a sticky peanut tamarind dressing. 

The Thai Aromatic Mixed Seafood (RMB158) comes chock-full of monster prawns, calamari, mussels and clams, all in a tamarind broth seasoned with Thai basil, kefir lime, lemongrass and chili jam – a refreshing summery dish to make you forget it’s actually still winter. 

Available for lunch, the Pad Mama Tom Yum Stir-Fried Noodles (RMB48-68) are a twist on the traditional pad thai, with the diners choice of protein (tofu, chicken, beef or shrimp).

Squiggly ramen noodles are stir-fried with egg, cabbage, carrots, fresh tomatoes and herbs, topped with crunchy bean sprouts, lime and crushed peanuts. 

Charred with puckering skin, the Issan Grilled Spring Chicken (RMB108/whole, RMB78/half) is tender and smoky, served with an addictingly tangy tamarind dipping sauce. 

Next up, the Green Curry (RMB68/chicken, RMB98/shrimp) with mushrooms, chili and eggplant uses a base of homemade curry paste, made fresh each morning. The extra zing from the spice translates to an ideal winter meal, and the filling portion can easily be shared with others if you want to sample more of the menu. 

The star of the show, the Tom Yum Soup (RMB78), sees meaty prawns bathed in that signature hot and sour broth – accented subtly by lemongrass and kaffir lime leaves – that proves to be pleasantly creamier than expected. 

For dessert, it’s all about keeping it authentic with Khanom Ta Ko (RMB40/3 pieces) – coconut cream custard with sago served in Pandan leaves – that you would likely find in a Thai night market.

And, of course, Mango Sticky Rice (RMB88); a monster portion of juicy, sliced mango sprinkled with coconut chips is served with coconut milk soaked sticky rice and coconut ice cream that melts into a thick sauce, stickily coating the plate – and your tongue – in tropical goodness. 

As for the drinks, this venue sees the addition of three new cocktails curated by none other than Mark Lloyd (J. Boroski) in collaboration with Crimson Pangolin.

Using unmistakably Thai flavors, Lloyd created three distinct infusions – Kaffir Lime Leaf Gin, Pandan Campari, and Tom Yum Gin – for a twist on a gimlet, a negroni and a sour, each going for RMB58 a pop. 

The Vibe 

If we are judging a book by its cover, KIN wins at merging slick minimalism with the tasteful inclusion of Thai elements, such as colorful tiling and retro black and white images. 

That same vibe – enhanced by Thai-covers of pop classics – carries over to this new neighborhood hangout, with floor-to-ceiling windows that make the space feel bright and welcoming, regardless of the time of the year. 

Price: RMB58-128
Who’s Going: The Jing’an lunch and casual dinner crowd, followers of The Camel Hospitality Group, health-conscious eaters that still prioritize flavor over macros
Good For: Thai cravings, fresh yet flavorful lunches, pretending you’re in Thailand sans the sand

KIN Urban Thai Kitchen, 392 Dagu Lu, near Chengdu Bei Lu, 大沽路392号, 近成都北路.