An implicit rule in the art of taco making is that texture – and lots of it – is always good. A crunch of a masa shell, a dribble of spicy salsa, a squirt of a popping ripe tomato, a chomp of fresh slaw, a chewy pull of a flour tortilla or a hot, stringy ooze of melted mozzarella – can transform a humdrum taco into something infinitely more delicious.

READ MORE: Tacolicious: A Mexican Comfort Food Mecca

With that in mind, it’s not earth-shattering news that Tacolicious makes the epitome of a damn great taco – living up to the restaurant’s cheeky tagline, ‘Making Tacos Great Again.’ We sat down with owner Logan Brouse to learn about how Tacolicious came to be recognized as Shanghai’s most bustling taco joint and what it took to get there, tracing his route from early days as a bartender to becoming a well-respected restaurateur.

Logan Brouse at The Strip in 2010

What first brought you to Shanghai?
On May 15, 2010, I made the leap from San Francisco to Shanghai, a date I remember vividly because it coincided with Bay to Breakers – a legendary race and party that encapsulates the spirit of San Francisco. I was invited by George Chen, the owner of Roosevelt Steakhouse, to consult on a new venture called The Strip at the Ascot Hotel, now in the space we all know as Highline.

Brouse workng at 1930 in San Francisco

Before this, I had spent eight years managing Shanghai 1930 in San Francisco, a high-end Chinese restaurant. The space had a full live jazz band and a private (members only) cigar lounge, called Guanxi Lounge, that catered to high profile guests like Gavin Newsom and Kamala Harris.

Brouse at The Strip in Shanghai in 2010

My role as the American consultant at The Strip was a rare opportunity since there were very few Western bartenders in Shanghai at the time. What was supposed to be a one-month stay turned into a remarkable 16-year adventure.

How did you get started in F&B in Shanghai?
My journey in the food and beverage industry began in 2002 when I took my first bartending job at The Palace in Santa Fe, New Mexico, at just 22 years old. Since then, I’ve never strayed from this path; it has always been my calling.

Brouse at M1NT circa 2012

When did you know you wanted to open a bar or restaurant?
Every bartender dreams of opening their own bar eventually, but the reality of ownership often proves more challenging than expected. After my time at The Strip, I joined M1NT in 2012, one of the top nightclubs globally, known for its electrifying nightlife. The experience was exhilarating, filled with unforgettable nights.

Brouse at Muse in 2013

From there, I was approached by the Muse Group and became the lounge manager for Muse on the Bund from 2013-2014. It was a massive venue with a restaurant, lounge, KTV rooms, and nightclub.

Brouse at the original Logan's Punch at Zhongyuan Plaza

In late 2014, a friend, Adrian Wall (of Joe’s Pizza), who was an investor at The Strip, called me (probably after a few too many drinks), and suggested we open a bar named Logan’s Punch. I agreed (likely under the same influence), and we found a spot at Zhongyuan Plaza, collaborating with Neri&Hu for the design.

We launched Logan’s Punch on July 4, 2014, offering a “dive bar for rich people” vibe, blending gritty energy with high-end clientele. Think It’s Always Sunny in Philadelphia, but for high rollers.  The bar won the title of Best Designed Bar in the World in 2014.

Brouse at Logan's Punch

When and why did Logan’s Punch eventually close?
The original Logan’s Punch closed at the end of 2018 due to the government taking over the entire complex, which is now home to the giant Louis Vuitton store in Zhongyang Plaza. We opened a second location from 2019 to 2022, but it succumbed to the challenges posed by COVID-19.

How did you transition from Logan’s Punch to Tacolicious?
After creating a highly successful food program at Logan’s Punch, I decided to explore opening a restaurant to take that popular food program to another level. Being from New Mexico, I envisioned something quirky that Shanghai was missing, which birthed the tagline “making tacos great again.” One of the perks of this venture was the earlier hours; I appreciated being able to wrap up by midnight instead of the usual 4 AM life of a bartender manager.

What was your vision for Tacolicious, and how has it evolved?
Opening a taco spot had always been an idea in the back of my mind. Through discussions with Chef Brad Turley, I took over the previous Goga location, and within a week, we were ready to launch. This was in the summer of 2018. The first Tacolicious was a lively spot on Yueyang Lu, known for its hip-hop atmosphere and rooftop, focusing solely one ever-flowing tacos, drinks, and fun vibes.

When we opened a second location in Jing’an in March 2020, we noticed a shift in demographic towards families, prompting us to tone down the music and expand the menu beyond just tacos. This evolution led to the new identity: “More than just amazing tacos,” integrating burritos, quesadillas, and other offerings.

Grilled Shrimp Salad at Tacolicious

Pozole at Tacolicious

What’s your favorite dish on the Tacolicious menu?
With eight years in operation, we constantly rotate specials, especially on Taco Tuesdays, where we rarely repeat dishes. Currently, I’m leaning towards lighter options, particularly the grilled shrimp salad, which features grilled shrimp, soft-boiled eggs, fresh greens, and garlic-soy dressing. I also love our chicken pozole soup, a cherished childhood dish from New Mexico, reimagined at Tacolicious with a red broth and a hint of sour cream.

Cauliflower Taco at Tacolicious

And what’s your favorite taco on the menu and why?
The Crispy Cauliflower taco is a standout for me – deep-fried cauliflower with garlic mayo, salsa, and cheese. It’s a bold statement that vegetarian options can still be indulgent. Our menu caters to various dietary preferences as everything is made in-house, allowing for modifications to accommodate vegans, vegetarians, and those with gluten sensitivities.

Quesadilla at Tacolicious

What separates Tacolicious from other taco spots?
At Tacolicious, our focus is on deliciousness rather than strict authenticity. Living in China, sourcing traditional ingredients (like masa, ancho chilis, fresh jalapeños, etc.) can be a challenge, so we prioritize flavor and creativity, blending Chinese and international influences while maintaining the essence of tacos. We even collaborate with a local avocado farmer, as we go through avocados faster than any other restaurant in town. We’re not Tex-Mex or traditional Mexican; we’re uniquely Tacolicious, characterized by our fun and lively personality.

Quesadilla at Tacolicious

What’s the wackiest order you’ve received?
One memorable order at The Strip involved a guest requesting a 1964 Latour mixed with Coca-Cola. Initially, I was taken aback, but a fellow manager reminded me that hospitality is about the guest’s happiness, not my ego. This transformed my perspective on service.

At Tacolicious, we have a regular (who just so happens to be highly lactose intolerant) who always orders Queso Fundido despite knowing the consequences. Needless to say, we keep his prescription medicine handy for him in the fridge year-round!

How has Shanghai’s F&B scene evolved over your tenure here?
When I first arrived in 2010, Shanghai’s scene was dominated by nightclubs with flashy cocktails. I introduced fresh juices and classic techniques, contributing to the emergence of a new generation of bartenders alongside industry icons like Eddie Yang, Yao Lu, and Cross Yu, around 2011. Competitions like Diageo World Class helped shape what we termed “Shanghai Style,” blending Japanese precision, American energy, and local creativity, elevating the cocktail scene.

Octopus Ceviche at Tacolicious

On the dining front, since opening Tacolicious, I’ve witnessed numerous restaurants rise and fall, making longevity a rarity. Our loyal customers, especially Chinese students who studied abroad and returned back to China, often share their experiences and cravings for Western food with family and friends, particularly post-COVID. Additionally, global cultural influences – like the movie Coco or LeBron James trying to copyright the phrase “Taco Tuesday” – have heightened interest in Mexican cuisine, making our offerings more relevant and appealing.

When you’re not at Tacolicious, where will we find you eating and drinking?
For Chinese cuisine, I enjoy Dongbei, known for its hearty, shareable dishes, and Haidilao is always a favorite for hotpot. When it comes to Western food, I’m a fan of Zup, Homeslice, Parlay, Yak & Yeti, and Smoking Hog, among so many others. We are truly spoiled for choice in Shanghai. As for bars, I prefer casual spots like The Rooster, Juanitos, Lucky Mart, and Specters, where Rae Lee, one of my favorite bartenders, creates magic.

Churros at Tacolicious

If you weren’t in F&B, what would you be?
I would love to be a Travel Channel TV host, exploring the culinary landscapes across the globe.

Fried Fish Taco at Tacolicious

What advice would you give to your younger self or new F&B entrepreneurs?
Understanding finances is crucial. Even with a great concept and team, a lack of knowledge about costs, margins, and cash flow can lead to failure. F&B is a high-investment, low-margin business; knowing the numbers is essential.

At Tacolicious, we had a partner who failed to pay our suppliers and accountant, pocketing the funds instead. Trusting him, I didn’t monitor his responsibilities closely. When he unexpectedly left the country, we faced a shortfall of millions in RMB. We had to set up payment plans to settle our debts and restore our supplier relationships. In the end, we came out ok, but this isn’t always the case sadly for small businesses.

What’s next for you?
I’m currently a brand ambassador for Hai Seas Distillery, Shanghai's first distillery producing gin, vodka, rum, and whiskey, and we’re on a path of expansion. The future holds exciting opportunities for new locations and markets, while continuing to grow the brand and stay connected to the broader industry. As long as people keep showing up, we know we’re doing something right.