As a heritage spirit, feni has been deeply embedded in Goan culture for generations, but pouring it into the cocktail glass is what has propelled it onto the global stage of late.

In India’s seaside state of Goa – beloved for its sunshine and sandy beaches – feni forms the foundation of the region’s identity. Crafted from cashew fruit or coconut toddy (the sap from the flowering bud of the coconut palm), this traditional double-distilled spirit is making waves around the world. The flourishing feni legacy is not just a fleeting trend – it signifies a profound resurgence of an honored spirit; wild, native, complex, and deeply Goan.

 A Heritage Spirit with Deep Roots

Since 2009, feni has held Geographical Indication (GI) status, akin to Champagne or mezcal; its production wholly localized and reliant on the agricultural practices of the state. Introduced by the Portuguese in the 16th century, cashew trees have become emblematic of local agriculture in Goa – the only place on earth where the fruit is distilled.

Crafting feni is a labor-intensive process. It begins with the stomping of cashew apples under the intense Goan sun, followed by spontaneous fermentation in clay pots buried underground. The juice is distilled over open flame, with the first distillation – fruity and frivolous – referred to as uraak; while the second distillation, feni, is more layered and nuanced. This ancestral method, largely unchanged for over 400 years, preserves the spirit's originality.

A prominent advocate for the spirit, Pankaj Balachandran, founder of F&B consulting agency Countertop India, emphasizes its significance: “It encapsulates terroir, tradition, and narrative, a compelling story waiting to be told. Feni is unapologetic and honest – the perfect representation of the land it comes from.”

Historically relegated to the status of “local hooch,” craft feni is now capturing the attention of younger generations and international markets alike. Whether served neat, up, or mixed with lemon-lime soda and fresh chili – a Goan afternoon ritual – feni is finally being celebrated with the same reverence given to tequila, mezcal, or other pre-industrial process-made alcohol.  

Pankaj Balachandran (left) and Hansel Vaz (right)

As a leading feni farmer, pivotal figure in its upswing and founder of Cazulo (one of India’s first craft feni distilleries), Hansel Vaz shares, “It is a spirit whose flavors range from the exotic cashew fruit to the mystique of native produce like duksham and kokum, representing an understanding of distillation that is both revered and cherished.”

 From Pre-Industrial Spirit to Modern Mixology

 Feni’s reawakening is seeing bartenders and consumers embrace its funky aroma, tannic mouthfeel and versatile flavor, incorporating the spirit into cocktails that underscore its distinct character. Once viewed as an outdated choice, the recent efforts of passionate producers, a growing appreciation for indigenous spirits, a rise in craft cocktail culture in Goa, and a shift in consumer preferences toward authenticity and quality are all working together to popularize feni.

Domestically, bar owners like Sheldon Abranches, owner of Goa’s Hideaway, are spotlighting the spirit with initiatives like The Big Fat Uraak Party, a weekly uraak-themed bar takeover aiming to introduce it to the contemporary spirit enthusiast. Other industry players like Balachandran and Vaz are leading bespoke foraging and tasting experiences, creating an ecosystem between farmers, producers, artisans, and bars that exemplifies the essence of sustainability. “Hansel brings the cultural and historical depth of feni, while I integrate it into a modern bar program that’s ingredient-driven,” says Balachandran.

 His most recent endeavor, The Lab at Amaaranth, features menus designed with hyper-locality in mind. “Over 80% of our ingredients are sourced within a 5-kilometer radius, and the waste from the bar is composted and sent back to the farms, closing the loop.” Guests walk away with more than just a drink in hand – they leave with an emotional connection to the land, and an environmentally-conscious way of thinking about spirits.

Even international bartenders from Japan, Singapore and Europe have tasted feni at the farm and carried it home to spread the feni gospel through grassroots cultural exchange. Renowned bartender Hiroyasu Kayama, owner of Tokyo’s Bar Benfiddich (No. 25 on the World’s 50 Best Bars 2024), has incorporated feni into his bespoke creations, highlighting its adaptability and appeal on an international level.

Preserving the Feni Legacy

Feni isn’t merely a spirit; it embodies sustainability, craft, and culture. Naturally organic, made with zero additives, distilled in small batches, and linked to family-run fazendas, feni's genuineness is prized in a world where consumers are beginning to care about why something exists, not just what it tastes like. Moreover, its malleability opens a new palate of possibilities when paired with anything from foraged tropical fruits and spices to fresh vegetables and ferments. 

Hansel Vaz at Fazenda Cazulo

Moving from a “back shelf” drink to being featured on cocktail menu’s front page, “it's no longer about reinventing feni; it’s about restoring it to its rightful place in the narrative of great global spirits,” adds Balachandran. 

As feni gains traction in the world’s cocktail scene, education is crucial to overcoming misconceptions. Many consumers encounter poorly made industrial varieties, leading to a misunderstanding of its true potential. Priyanka Blah, World’s 50 Best India Academy Chair, stresses the importance of storytelling: “What Cazulo and a few other brands are doing is critical to demystifying the category and giving it the respect it deserves.” By sharing narratives behind feni, producers promote not just the spirit but also a deeper connection between consumers and the land from which it originates.

The Future is Feni

The future of feni is about recontextualizing it for the modern drinker. “We’re focused on building a slow, steady movement with integrity, consistency, and soul. And that’s why people are starting to pay attention,”lends Balachandran while sipping from a frothy tumbler of Indian sarsaparilla-infused feni, one of the five expressions sold commercially by Cazulo.

As feni transcends borders, finding its way into cocktail glasses worldwide, the aim is to see it championed not as a niche curiosity but as an integral part of the spirit repertoire, connecting people through shared experiences. “In five years, I hope Goa is known not only for beach sunsets, but as the terroir of India’s most profound spirit,” says Balachandran.

This article was originally written for and published on the World's 50 Best Bars website here.