Dianping wanghong spot Jin Yan Shitang (金焰食堂) started in the mall across from Tianzifang, a place that’s less about the sushi and more about the sushi tacos (known as temacos to those in the know).

Convinced that these were more hype than heft, we took on the challenge by ordering up not one, not two, not three, but four of the six temaco flavor options, each coming in roughly the weight of an actual Mexican taco – with all the fixings, of course. 

Just one bite proved us wrong – all doubts diminished.

These may be a somewhat 'bastardized' approach to sushi, but culinary rules are meant to be broken in the name of scrumptiousness. 

A fried outer seaweed shell is coated in a lace-like tempura to hold its contoured shape, thus ensuring the overall structural integrity of each temaco.

Next, a pressed layer of Japanese sticky rice is topped with matchsticks of fresh cucumber and a drizzle of spicy mayo.

Finally, the seafood toppings are added, of which we suggest the Colorful Sushi Taco (RMB29.90) – a mix of cubed raw salmon and yellowtail, sprinkled with beads of fish roe. 

A close second is the pure Salmon Sashimi Taco (RMB29.90) followed by a third-place tie for the Scallop and Shrimp Taco (RMB31.90) and the caramelized Eel Taco (RMB29.90).

That said, even the bronze deserves a medal – the curious amalgamation of tacos and sushi get the Frankenstein stamp of approval for being simultaneously absurd and divine.

Disclaimer

After visiting the Moho Mall shop on Jiangning Lu a few months later, we had a contrasting experience – the more positive being at the original Tianzifang storefront, the more sauce-smothered, not-so-fresh sushi tacos at Moho Mall. 

Shanghai now boasts 11 Jin Yan Shitang locations, and after our Moho Mall second stopover slip-up, we have yet to venture to the rest. So proceed with caution and note that there is some inconsistency in quality across locations.

There are currently 11 locations of Jin Yan Shitang around Shanghai – you can find the nearest location to you on Dianping.

READ MORE: Where (and Where Not) to Eat Value Sushi in Shanghai